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Let's Japan



Chapter 51

Journey's End: Make Your Peace with Japan.

As Monty Python would say: "And now for something completely different." Let's say that your adventure in Japan has worked out well. You've been here for a few years now. You've gotten past all the start-up hurdles: You found a real estate agent (fudosan) who set you up with a place of your own though you may never meet the landlord (oyasan). You've been fingerprinted and are used to carrying your "Goverment of Japan Certificate of Alien Registration" at all times when you are not actually in your abode, however humble. You know which video shops will rent to gaijins (you); you may even have found a doctor and a dentist. You begin to have time to notice little things like the empty train seat next to you; rather more often than seems normal, even on days when the train is packed to its standing-room-only 300% can-hardly-breathe capacity. But you shrug it off as your imagination. Or maybe you do notice, but decide it's no big deal.

As a minimum, you will understand enough Japanese to catch trains to work, order simple meals, and generally bumble through your daily life. If you live in the city you may learn less Japanese than foreign teachers living in rural areas. Yet people will wonder why your Japanese isn't better: After all you do live in Japan. Speaking for myself, I found that when I spend all day speaking English - which is my job after all - there is not much time or energy left over for learning Japanese. In my case, English is the language at home too. From time to time it is suggested that foreigners who live in Japan for a long time, and don't speak Japanese somehow look down on Japan. The truth in my case is that there are only so many hours in a very busy day.

Anyway, you will know quite a lot about Japan, its culture, its political and economic situation. You may completely baffle your friends back home with your carefully thought out opinions on the US-Japanese trade imbalance and the state of the yen-dollar eschange rate - especially if, like me, you are not American anyway! Yet if you stay here long enough, your horizons may begin to narrow. True, you will know a lot about things here. But sources of news in English, although more widely available than before, have a certain narrow focus that may eventually leave you feeling cut off from the world you left behind.

If you stay here long enough to raise a family bigger questions will loom. What about the many foreign professors who suddenly found themselves out of a job just a few years short of their pensions? What about getting and paying for a house? Can foreigners get mortgages from Japanese banks? Or even credit cards? Did you know it takes five years of marriage to a Japanese and of continuous residence in Japan just to apply to become a Permanent Resident? There have even been cases of foreigners becoming Japanese citizens. One of the preconditions is that the applicant must surrender their former citizenship and bring in the paper from the former country to prove it. They must also give up their former family name and adopt a "Japanese" name. (There's a list.) By accident or design, Japan is not considered a haven for immigrants.

Even if you have a thick skin, how do you feel about the treatment your children may receive? In my case, 12 of the 14 private Japanese kindergartens in my Ku rejected my non-Japanese son. When contacted by a Japanese friend, they said they either had a gaijin dame (foreigners forbidden) or a "Japanese only" policy. There's a difference? One very nice place did take him. (The well- meant but naive suggestion to send him to an international school doesn't take into account the fact that tuition and fees for these places approach those of the best Japanese medical schools.)

I wonder what the reaction of the Japanese press would be if a Japanese three-year old was rejected by a dozen Canadian schools for being Japanese? Discrimination against Canadians in Japan (to name one example) is not news in Canada. It's just one of those media mysteries: How do the media pick their stories? Don't expect either understanding or sympathy. There is no legal recourse. Shoganai. (That's the way the cookie crumbles...)

The idea of human rights may never be widely accepted in Japan. The idea that foreigners in Japan have rights is even less likely to be accepted.

When you're in your twenties or early thirties and in Japan for the adventure and the chance to pay off the student loans, none of these questions are even remotely important. But if you take some of the advice in this book, become a professional and decide to make a commitment to staying in Japan, then the special-for-gaijin-only-one-year-only-renewable-so-many-times contracts may seem more ominous. If you stay at the chalkface long enough, you will eventually master the art and science of teaching. During that time, you will have to find the comfort zone where you can exist as a "paid, professional gaijin" on the one hand and a defacto immigrant on the other. If you develop some parallel interest in Japanese things - kendo, sado or whatever - you will probably be comfortable in Japan over the long haul. But if teaching English is just a means to make money, the little things may really begin to grate on you. And it may not be Japan's fault.

There may always be an empty seat next to you on the train and you can either be offended by that or revel in extra space - either way it won't make any difference. Welcome to Japan! (When are you leaving?)

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